The world-famous Palermo Soho - Where to Stay, Where to Eat, Where to Party (& More).
Overview
It's tough to pinpoint exactly what makes Palermo Soho such a standout for even the most seasoned travellers... but it just is. This place is special.
Other cities have bars, cafes, cobblestone streets and lively patios - but Palermo Soho has a vibe you can't help but get addicted to.
After being here three times myself, including short and long-term stays, I've left no stone un-turned (I once literally walked the HangOverSeas initials across the neighbourhood lol, see insta reel here). Below, I've summed up my favourite spots for the following categories:
Stay (best spots for tourists, backpackers or expats / nomads)
Eat (cheap eats, fancy eats)
Party (best nightlife: speakeasies, bars, patios and clubs)
Randoms (couple extra highlights including gyms, parks and the best matè shop)
WHERE TO STAY
Best accommodation in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Tourist / Traveler (Short Term)
For short-term stays, you're probably looking at hostels or airbnbs. On the hostel front, it has to be the trio of Selina Palermo, Play Hostel Arcos, and Play Hostel Soho.
🥇 Selina has the biggest digital nomad crowd, a solid common space and events (including DJ sets, live bands, games and a pub crawl). It's also located right by Tres Monos (a fun cocktail bar) and two blocks from our favourite restaurant, El Preferido. This would be my first choice.
That said, if you're looking for free breakfast (albeit toast, coffee, tea, etc.), and an artsy vibe, Play Hostel Arcos is not a bad alternative. They have a courtyard, terrace, dinner 3 times a week and a fully-packed event list of their own. It's located only a few blocks North of the Selina in the direction of La Mala Pub (see nightlife section below).
If you're going the apartment route (airbnb, booking), here's an idea of where to look:
For nightlife: If you want to be right in the midst of the party, draw a square around the following 4 streets:
Soler to the East
Honduras to the West
Thames to the North
Armenia to the South
Everything in this area is BOOMING with nightlife and will ensure you an easy stumble back to your apartment. That said, it'll obviously be noisier - so go in with your eyes open (because they'll probably stay open, hah.)
For shopping: If you're into it.. the south end of Palermo Soho is full of boutique shops - the few blocks West of Plaza de Inmigrantes de Armenia. Otherwise it's the outdoor mall Distrito Arcos on the Northeast corner of the neighbourhood. Transparently I entered zero shops, but they look cool from out front.
Expats / Nomads (Long-Term)
All of Palermo is nice, but for living I found the Northeast quadrant to be the best (North of
Thames St and East of Guatemala St). Not only are you closest to the parks, running trails, malls and grocery stores, but you're also just far enough from the action to reach it easily, but still sleep well at night. Not to mention, the buildings here are phenomenal, with expansive rooftop patios (equipped with BBQ's and patio furniture), views, and sometimes even gyms, pools etc. There's also more access to general stores, pharmacies and random things like vegetable stands, which become more relevant when you're not just on vacation.
Ironically, one of my favourite buildings is even further North than this, technically outside of Palermo Soho in Palermo Hollywood. If you're really picky about your building, 3425 Concepción de Arenal has a phenomenal complex.. with gym, two rooftop pools, a full rooftop lawn (the size of a soccer field), a grocery store underneath it and perhaps most importantly a fully operated restaurant / bar on the roof. If you're used to North American or European prices.. this place serves full meals at less than grocery prices back home.. on your rooftop. Only in Buenos Aires..
EATS
Best Restaurants in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Cheap Eats
The Burger Joint - "Best pound for pound value".
This graffiti-covered hole in the wall offers cheap tap beer and delicious greasy burgers served with fries and house-made sauces. You probably shouldn't eat here every day, but oh baby will it ever cure a hangover. GLORIOUS!
Mercado Soho - A lively indoor market complete with patio, stage (with DJ's and live music) and several vendors offering food and drink. Pick from Spanish, to Middle Eastern, American and more. Great spot to start the night!
"Bodegons" - If you're on a budget, or living in Palermo, "bodegons" are the sweet-spot between home cooking and take-out. Peppered across the neighbourhood, bodegons are often family-run shops offering take-away homestyle food cheaper than any restaurant. My personal favorite is La Famiglia Como en Casa. Try their juicy beef tenderloin, milanesas (breaded beef schnitzels) or grandma's unbelievable homemade gnocchi. Quick, cheap, delicious.
El Preferido - One of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires, period. This pink powerhouse sees lines and a waiting list every single day - and for good reason. In line with the Argentinian (and Spanish) style, it doesn't try to be fancy, but lets the homestyle food and 5-star service do the talking.
It's not as cheap as the other cheap options, but if you're trying to "ball out on a budget" this is absolutely the spot.
⭐️ Pro-Tip: The appetizers are the stars of the show - try as many as you can. For mains, the shrimp scampi is delicious.
Bonus: Best ice cream - by far - Rapa Nui 🍦
Fancy Eats
Don Julio - The most well-known steakhouse in Buenos Aires, and a must-do-no-questions-asked when visiting Argentina. It's class, it's quality, it's Don Julio. Note: You'll need to swing by around 1pm and wait in line to get on "the list". Then come back around supper time (at whatever hour they've told you) and wait again to get in. Don't worry, this second time they serve you champagne while you wait. PS - highest of quality and service, yet still way cheaper than Europe or N. America.
Speakeasies - Doubling as bistros, the hidden cocktail lounges in Palermo are some of my favourites for food as much as drink (more on those below). J.W. Bradley stands out as the best of the lot in terms of grub. Try their mini burgers, sushi, and the chocolate volcano. 🔥
PARTY
Best Nightlife in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Plaza Serrano: The main square and "beating heart" of Palermo Soho. It's impossible not to have fun here. Even on weeknights, locals stay out drinking until the wee hours.
It's intoxicating - pun intended.
Our go-to spots are Keller Serrano and Baum Serrano which sit side-by-side. Keller has the best beer (and jenga), while Baum has a fire DJ (and good pizza).
Pro-Tip: You'll get approached by promoters to go to their clubs. Let's be honest, if they need to come beg for visitors they're probably not the bars you're interested in. Stick to the crowds, and your HangOverSeas suggestions 😎.
Speakeasies - Palermo is littered with them, but the favourites were:
J.W. Bradley: Enter through a train car, then sip cocktails and FIRE food inside a hip lounge, themed to look like a 20's train station. The music is a vibe too.
Victoria Brown Bar: Themed after the affair between Queen Victoria and John Brown, this upscale, hidden cocktail lounge feels like you're in a proper James Bond movie.
Cacho Rotiseria: The front looks like a modest take-out joint, but the inside is anything but. The rooftop patio gets rowdy and at a certain hour the INSIDE turns into a full-on rager. Came here a few times - recommend!
Bars / Pubs - Impossible to list, but Costa Rica and Jorge Luis Borges streets are swimming in fun bars. Some notable mentions: Behind Bar, Mercado Soho, La Chopperia, Glück Cerveceria, Tres Monos. Every night you'll think you've found your favourite, and tomorrow.. you'll change your mind.
Clubs - The "super-clubs" are actually on the water, a little EAST of Palermo (think Bayside and Moscú), but in the neighbourhood you'll still find plenty of proper bars that are open until 3-5am. Buda Bar stays busy and has good music, but 🥇La Mala is our favourite. Built underneath a train bridge, its architecture and covered patio alone make it worth a visit, but the DJ's and raucous crowd really made it pop. If you're looking for a proper night out, La Mala will take care of you.
ODD's & END's
Outdoors
Just on the edge of Palermo sits the awe-inspiring trinity of: Parque el Rosedal, Jardín Botánico and Ecoparque Buenos Aires. In this mammoth complex (think Central Park NYC), you have everything from running trails, to botanical gardens, free-roaming zoo animals, food trucks, statues and rivers complete with paddle-boats. If you need a recovery day, this is where to do it. Grab some amigos, a blanket and some 'mate' - and do as the locals do - chill.
If you're in the heart of Palermo and too lazy to move to Rosedal, pop over to Plaza Inmigrantes de Armenia , located SMACK in the middle of the liveliest area. It turns into a market on weekends, but is a perfect spot for some rays, a hangout at the picnic tables or playing with other people's dogs. HangOverSeas hangover pro-tip right there: public puppy therapy.
Fitness
If you're staying a while and want to work out, Always Gym has two locations and fantastic facilities in both. I personally prefer the Guatemala Street location (bigger, more diverse). Alternatively, Hakkyo gyms are also plentiful if you're looking for a low-cost option. If you're curious, I made this short video on Why Athletes Should Visit Buenos Aires to Train.
If you like to run, jog your way to Parque el Rosedal (above).
Mate Shop
You didn't really go to Argentina if you didn't try mate - arguably Argentina's #1 pass-time (right up there with fútbol). In terms of buying your container, Todo Mates has the widest selection we found in the neighbourhood.
While I recommend grabbing the herb itself in a grocery store or mini-market (cheaper), the container you should buy here. Makes for a class souvenir as well.
⭐️Pro-Tip: You can find youtube videos on how to pour and prepare, but you're better off asking a local. Don't splurge on an expensive thermos either, mini-marts sell red, plastic ones for about $1.
Hipódromo de Palermo (🐎)
For a break from the pubs and cafés, consider an afternoon at the historic Hipódromo de Palermo - a horse-racing track and casino in Northeast Palermo. Betting pesos and watching the locals go wild is an experience unto itself. You can watch from the gallery or walk down to the edge of the track to see the action up-close. We also played some electronic roulette and couldn't seem to lose - so I might be biased.
P.S - No booze at the horse track (unfortunately), and the food was pretty awful. Go there fed.
Final Notes
I haven't seen it all, but 43 countries later I can safely say Buenos Aires is among the best cities I've ever seen. The intangible energy of the place is impossible to explain. Everyone I know who's been there, loved it - and Palermo Soho always comes up as the highlight of highlights.
If you're headed to BA and have any other nagging questions, DM us at @hang.over.seas 🤙 Here to help. (unless it's Sunday, probably hungover)
“It seems that the more places I experience, the bigger I realize the world to be.
The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know.
How many places I have still to go, how much more there is to learn.”
– Anthony Bourdain
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